After yesterday’s failure to find Akhenaten’s temple, I returned to Karnak this morning armed with a pdf copy of a photograph taken during the excavations done in the 70s. I was determined to find the temple site, or at least the place where it once stood. Again, as it was early, the whole complex was empty, apart from a handful of guardians who greeted me with the customary “welcome, welcome”. As I was wearing the hat as opposed to the scarf one of them called out “welcome Doctor”, a deferential term used for archaeologists/Egyptologists, that I thought was quite funny.

The site I was looking for lies on the eastern side of Karnak, beyond a later Greek temple. To my horror, when I got through to the other side I found the path closed off by a locked gate. I climbed the embankment to see if there was another way, but the other side was a shear drop of 10 metres or so. Within seconds I heard the familiar cry of a guardian offering me an alternate entry – at a price. I followed this man along a dusty path until we came to another gate which he let me slip through.

By now a couple of his companions had arrived and were insisting that it all was not ok. The guardian told me I had 1 minute. A momentary pause as I thought of snakes, and then I was off through the undergrowth with the picture on my phone as a guide. I found the spot, but unfortunately, everything is overgrown and there is very little to see. The shouting had got quite loud and I looked up to see security with guns calling me back.

They met me half way and told me it was forbidden to be there. I immediately proclaimed ignorance and that I didn’t understand and was very sorry and, by the way, is this Akhenaten’s temple site? It was indeed the Gempaaten site that I had been looking for, unfortunately closed as excavations are still going on. The one security guy said there are still statues underground and no one can come here. I was escorted back to the Karnak precinct and told, with much gesturing, not to say a word. Everyone then stood around expectantly until I pulled out my wallet and dished out the baksheesh. We all went our seperate ways quite happy with the outcome.

The great thing about not being part of a group is that you can go places that are, perhaps, not part of the tourist route. My other reason for returning to Karnak today was for more photographs. So much of the book is centred around the 18th Dynasty and all of the relevant kings have built at Karnak, and with their building, left inscriptions detailing their achievements. I managed to find, again with the help of a security guard and some money, some beautiful wall decorations by Tuthmose III where all the colour is still intact. I also found a vast section of wall depicting Akhenaten smiting the Asiatics, however it is so badly damaged that it is difficult to see what is going on.

I forgot to say that yesterday morning I was not alone in Karnak, there was a jackal that kept making an appearance, until the crowds came. This morning there was a bird of prey flying overhead. I couldn’t help but think of Anubis and Horus.

Tomorrow I cross the river to revisit the Valley of the Kings as well as the all important tombs of the Theban nobles. And a return to Djser Djseru, the Splendour of Splendours. Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple. Just another dull Christmas Eve!