The Most Select of Places, the Throne of the Two Lands. The Karnak Temple Complex was our target for this morning. We met our trusty river boatman and set off downriver to a landing point close to the entrance of one of the largest religious complexes ever built. A great river ride downstream, rather than crossing and getting a taxi, or worse, a calèche, to our destination.
Tickets bought, as our Luxor Passes had expired, we waited for our guide for the morning. Soon we set off for the first pylon and our journey back in time, step by step to the middle kingdom. The place was heaving with tourists from all corners of the earth, many of them Red Sea day-visitors. One can’t help feeling some sympathy for these groups where all of you are bussed in, then dragged around at such a speed it is impossible to take anything in.
The second pylon takes you to the Hypostyle Hall, always impressive. The northern columns are being cleaned and so there was a fair bit of scaffolding. The columns that have been cleaned are something special. Despite having visited Karnak many times, and even spending 3 ½ days walking the complex a few years ago, there are still things that are new to me and areas that I have never looked at properly. This was my first time of seeing the now upright broken Hatshepsut obelisk.
The coffee shop/refreshment centre by the Nilometer seemed a good place to have a break. I had booked our guide for two 1-hour slots with a gap in the middle. Those not resting, including our guide, headed to the open-air museum; a much neglected-by-tourists area. On the way we paused at the northern exterior wall of the Hypostyle Hall to look at Seti I’s return from fighting the Sashu, but I have to say it is getting harder and harder to make things out. Start at the canal and work back towards the east to find the forts on the Way of Horus leading to the fortress of Zarw. The open-air museum has been tidied up and is looking good.
Time to rejoin the rest of the Luxor Mob by the sacred lake. Once we were all together again, we set off eastward and re-entered the complex by the Rameses II Temple of the Hearing Ear at the Eastern end. We made our way through the Tuthmose III Botanical Garden to the Akh-menu, where the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities has installed a replica of the Karnak King List in its original location at the southwest corner.
The centre section, and site of the original Middle Kingdom Karnak, takes us back to the Holy of Holies and from there we were back on the main east-west axis of the complex. Having some time to spare with our guide we elected to head south through pylons 7 to 10 and from there to the Temple of Khonsu which is also under restoration. From here it was a short walk to the entrance in the 1st pylon and soon we were enjoying a drink at one of the many café/restaurants near the ticket office.
This was our final day in Luxor, and we headed back to the hotel for a late lunch and to pack.
Our flight from Luxor to Cairo was delayed by an hour, which meant we arrived in Cairo well after midnight. We had a taxi service booked so that should have been all ok. But it wasn’t.
Our driver got lost despite using a GPS system on his phone. This necessitated phoning the hotel several times, who were also waiting for us. We visited parts of Cairo that no-one needs to visit, where it seemed even the residents were warning us to turn around and go back. It was all a little hairy at times as our driver kept ignoring the GPS directions and we were treated to the joys of Cairo traffic in the early hours.
Sitting in the front of the vehicle I could not help but search desperately for pedals that weren’t there, as we skimmed what seemed to be certain death at times. The Luxor Mob were remarkably still in good cheer. Eventually down a dusty dirt road we found the hotel. Not the actual building that I had booked online, but it was now 2:30 in the morning and we had a planned 7am breakfast.
It does say it’ll be an adventure you’ll never forget. Last day tomorrow… er, I mean today.